In this article I am going to describe how to get two dogs to work togeher without reacting to each other's commands. If you want to work two dogs on the farm together , or take part in a brace competion, the same principals must be applied. For any sheepdog handler it would be one of the most satisfying things to have two dogs working togehter under perfect control, and it is not as difficult as some may think.

Before I even think of starting to teach two dogs to work together they must be trained to fairly advanced stage on their own. When you start training the youngsters keep in mind that if you want them to work together they must have different sets of commands. Normally I will make the ''stop '' commands as well as the ''walk up'' commands the same. Some peolpe use different ''walk up'' commands as well. But I have found it is better to keep it simple, I will rather use the specific dog's name if I want only one to walk up. The ''stop'' command is the crucial one, both dogs must have good stops. When working two dogs together timing is important and good stops are vital.

The first thing that we are going to teach the dogs are not to work on each other's commands. I put a lead one of the dogs and make it lie down at my side, with the other one I will start working the sheep in a cirlce around me. Every time I give a command to the working dog, the one at my side is likely to try and get up . I will make it lie down every time he make's a move. I will keep it going for a minute or two and then swop the two dogs around, making the other one lie down this time. When they start getting the idea of waiting their turn, I will start moving away from the one lying down until I am about 20m - 30m away .

It is important to remember not to overdue this exercise and keep the lessons short, some dogs can be put off working with other dogs if you are not careful. When you feel you have them under control in this exercise you can go on to the next stage, but their is no point in going on if they are not under proper control at this close range.

In the next exercise we try and teach the dogs to feel the pressure of their partner and to help them understand that they don't have to do all the work. I'll put some sheep in a corner so that they will not be able to get away. The dogs I place 50m away next to each other, whilst I stand to the one side , close to the sheep and facing the dogs. Be careful not to stand between the sheep and the dogs, make sure they can focus on the sheep with you off to one side.The reason for standing in this position is to be able to put some pressure on the dogs and to have good control over them. Normally when I work my dogs I will say the dogs name before the command this helps them to concentrate. I will ask the dog on the left to walk up and then flank it left, away from his mate and flank it back again, as soon as it looks like his going to cross over past the other dog I will make him stop and walk him up a few yards. I then flank the dog on the right out and back again. At this point I will ask both dogs to walk up together. While the dogs are coming forward I flank them out and back again and try to get them as close together as possible without crossing sides.They will soon realize that the other dog is covering the one side, and they are not allowed to go there. During this exercise communication is very important and I do a lot of talking and commanding.

The next step will be to sent them to fetch sheep together. It is not worth trying to send them too far because you will not be able to control them at this stage. In the begining I will send them on short outruns about 50m - 100m. The one thing you want to achieve when sending two dogs out to fecth sheep, is for them to arrive at the back of the sheep at the same time. This can be quite difficult because the natural outrun of dogs can differ a lot. If you have a wide runner and a tight dog you will have to send the wide runner first, and then try to figure out how long to wait before you send the second dog, in order for them to arrive at the back of the sheep together. With a little practise and experience you will soon get an idea how long to wait before you send your second dog considering the distance they have to go to the sheep.

Once your dogs arrive at the sheep I will allow them to cross at the back if they want to. Stop both dogs in the beginning just as they are about to lift the sheep this is just make sure you have the control. Now try and flank the dogs off and away from the sheep so that they are in a eleven and two o'clock position. Now you can walk them up , this means that they almost push the sheep into each other. To get them to drive together is almost the same I want them to wedge the sheep together, heavy sheep is ideal to start with, it will make it easier in the beginning. To start of you can walk with your dogs, one on each side of you and slowly start holding back untill they are driving in front of you. Now it is just time and a lot of work together to get them to work as a unit.

Not all dogs are cut out to be good brace dogs, some are too selfish and want to do all the work , while others are too sensitive and can't keep their cool. If you are battling to get two dogs to work together try and sort out which one is causing the most problems and rather try and replace it with another partner. Some times bad habits developed as a result of brace work ,one of them is stopping short. Try and swop your dogs sides regurly. A lot of brace handlers never change the dogs sides, I try and change mine often, this will keep the dogs balanced and alert.

All though not all dogs can work together properly they can all learn not to work on another dogs commands. This helps a lot on the farm when you have big flocks to work, and you can move your dogs as individuals around the flock. A good brace pair doesn't just happen, it is hard work and what you put in is what you get out. But one thing is for sure when they are working well there is nothing in the sheepdog world that will give you more satifaction.